I came to Shiraz by the night train from Tehran. Cost rial with bedclothes, drinks and snacks. Very clean, very safe, unaccompanied women are grouped togeather. Better to book the ticket at least a day in advance, train was full. Any agency can help with that.
The hotel situation in Shiraz was not good - the cheapest offer 75 usd per night, way above my expectations. I sent out some SOS mails and a local guide fixed a homestay for me, 35 usd per night, the whole top floor for me alone, water running, AC working hard and loud. Shiraz is too big to be walked on foot in one day I love walking. Either take a driver or prioritise your interests. There is not very good tourist info visible, some directions ard given but not enough. Everything that is walled is also ticketed, a foreigner pays for each site.
Beware the famous gardens close quite early in the evening, no way to be there at night. The new Shah Charrah mosque has no entrance fee. They let me have a special chador for foreigners, gave me an English speaking girl to guide me, let me take pics inside and outside as much as I liked, treated to tea, biscuits and some printed info, all free of charge and a smile.
Besides, the girl said bare toes are not prohibitef in the street, so I wear flipflops ever since. F or the ruin tour 3 sites, all day I shared with a couple ftom usa and paid only 30 usd, plus guide in Persepolis 15 usd. It goes without saying tourists also pay the lunch for driver, kind of hidden cost, about 2 usd. Tour was impressive and exhausting.
Next day I chose to visit Morgoon waterfalls. Again, whole day for 30 usd shared trip, very green and refreshing. To Yazd one can go by bus very cheaply. I chose to go with my driver due to some health condition. Hotel situatin in Yazd was tense as well, I was happy my guide booked the last room in hotel Orient, 45 usd.
